Friday, December 11, 2009

Scarf Season!

Every year, I typically open up winter with a crochet hook and one roll of yarn for every friend I have. By Christmas, everyone has a cozy, colorful scarf, and I'm ready to set aside any thought of crocheting for an entire year. It tends to work out perfectly.

This year though, I've been so inspired my colorful vintage fabrics and different shapes of scarves. Cowls, "necklaces," braids... So beyond my one dimensional world of crocheting. I decided to start exploring some other options, and this "necklace" scarf has been one of my favorites. I wasn't sure if all of my friends would be on board for this one, but I've even had some orders for their family members as well!

This particular scarf is for my friend Justine's mom.

I started with a rectangular piece of fabric, approximately 48" x 18". The width and length entirely depends on the kind of fabric. It will be folded in have lengthwise, and thinner fabrics will collapse more, so just use your best judgement. What I always do before sewing anything is simply gather the fabric in the shape of a scarf I'm making, hold the ends together at my neck (as if I'm clasping a necklace), and see how it hangs down around my body. If I want it shorter, I'll cut it. If I want it to have more volume, I'll make sure to cut it wider so it won't be as thin after I fold it in half.

At this point, I've already taken my rectangle and folded it in half, with the backside exposed. I then simply sewed the seam up the entire length.


When it's still inside out, take the time to trim the edges after sewing to make sure they are perfectly straight. You can do it before, but likely you will have to do it again. Some fabric tends to stretch out on one side and not the other while in the sewing machine.

Turn it inside out, and you've got your initial shape! FYI, if you'd like a traditional wraparound type scarf, you could just hem the open seams at both sides and be done... Just start with a much longer piece of fabric and make sure to test out how looks before cutting. Nothing's worse than a stumpy scarf. : )

Now you're going to fold both ends in, because they will be sewn together, and the entire thing will be more of a big, fabricy necklace.

Before you sew, take just one side and twist it once, and line the ends back up again. This is because when it is on, it just helps the bulk of the scarf land in the right way around your neck. Trust me on this one! For cowls, I just sew the ends together and never twist the scarf, but for the necklace shape, you want it to sit flatter against your chest and not look like one of those cloth baby holders.

This part is tricky, so I hope the pictures aren't too confusing. Take the ends of the scarf and hold them up next to each other, so that all the unfinished edges are one one side. There will be four rows of fabric. The two inside rows are what you are going to sew together, with the backside of the fabric exposed as you sew. Put a pin in where the seams align so that it looks "organized" when finished.

This is how you want your fabric to be laid out when you take it to the sewing machine. Try to get the two inside layers pulled out a bit so that they don't get confused with the two outside layers.
It's going to feel strange because there is so much fabric going on at this point. Just try to keep it all in the right place. Start where you put the pin on the seam, and simple hem the two edges together. You'll realize it's the exact same thing you did to sew together the initial rectangle, but since the shape is now a circle, the machine will basically start pulling the fabric around until you get back to where you started. Remember though, the hole is going to start getting smaller and smaller, and eventually you'll have no more room to keep sewing and it won't be completely sealed. If you're patient and very careful, you can get it within a few inches, and then simply pull it off the machine and cut the thread, leaving a few inches longer than usual.

Now laid flat, you see that you've sewn the edges together and have just a small hold left to sew by hand. I don't always tie a knot at the end of machine stitches, but in this case I do because it will loosen very easily, so on each side of the hole, make sure the seam is nice and tight with the extra thread you left on the ends.

Thread a needle and tie a knot, and insert the needle between the seams first so that the knot isn't exposed. Try to start a little bit further to the right and overlap where the machine has shown for more reinforcement. Then, as shown here, sew the remaining gap by going right to left, keeping the thread on the right as you go. Keep the fabric folded in a little bit just like it looks on the either side of the hole. Unlike a machine that sews the pieces together side by side, this stitch will be almost invisible if you keep it tight and as close to the inside of the fold as possible
Finish the last stitch in the "crack" of the fabric, trying to make it unseen. If it's stretchy fabric or the kind that has "pores," you can even tie it around one of the threads of the fabric. This is a pretty important knot... Because it's the last one! Throw on your beautiful scarf, you are finished!
Experimenting with different kinds of fabric is really fun. This pattern was really interesting because it seamed to have a border of flowers at the bottom as if it were made for curtains. I liked the idea that it would make the scarf have a focal point, so I went ahead with it. There are so many different fabrics that look great in this style, and you can create focal points with pins, embroiderd flowers, buttons, etc. I've got my eye on adding a Dainty flower to one!

The best part about this scarf is that you never have to do the whole "how do I wear this scarf?" ordeal. You simply throw it around your neck, and it still adds just as much color, volume, and shape to your outfit. If the fabric allows, you can even double it up the way you would wrap a hairtie around twice, for a more chunky, layered look.
I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial... And I hope Justine's mom enjoys her scarf! : )
Much love and happy holidays!
Lin

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